Veteran Harmony

29389-medNext model up is Veteran Harmony.  This model is a player in the Mason’s Guild for the game Guild Ball.   I wasn’t that big of a fan of the original Harmony model, but this one seemed like it would be a lot of fun.  It is a simple pose with Harmony holding a long blade with both hands at her waist.

After assembly, I primed with black primer.  I am currently using Army Painter Matte Black primer, which is satisfactory.  I used to prime with complete coverage.  I would touch every bit of the model with the primer, but it became difficult to pick out details, or even figure out what parts of the model are post priming.  I now just spray enough just to get enough on there to get the paint to stick, which I believe is the intended purpose of primer.


Taking pictures of primed models turns out to be pretty difficult.  I ended up just using the flash, but I don’t think it looks the best, however, pulling the light box out for a primed model shot seemed like overkill.

I started out with my base coats.  The face was the most straight-forward.  I just used Ryn Flesh, thinned it down and applied about 4 coats.  The hair was a mixture of 2 parts Skorne Red Base and 1 part Bootstrap Leather.  Same deal here, few thin coats and move on.  The clothes are a base coat of Cygnar Blue base and the gloves and boots are Bootstrap Leather.IMG_20170322_215349-COLLAGE (1)

I avoided all of the metals at this point.  I learned from the Zaadesh situation that if I missed with the metal that trying to base on top of it could make it look really bad.  Luckily, most of the metal surfaces on Harmony are raised at the top level of depth, so there was about 0 drawback to this decision.

Next up was shading.  I utilized Citadel washes again here.  It is my normal go to in this department.  I honestly think it is because they are the easiest to use.  Normally you can just dip your brush in to the pot and slather it on.  I tried to be a bit more precise with the wash this time though.  I don’t know how well it came through, but I think it helped with some of the contrast transitions I think.

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I used a mix of Seraphim Sepia and Reikland Flesh for the hair.  I tried just Reikland at first, but I didn’t get any contrast at all.  After the Sepia was added I got a bit more.  I think I need to work more towards pushing wash a bit better.  There are crevasses in the hair lines that I just didn’t hit at all.  I used Drakenhof Nightshade for all of the blue areas and finally Agrax Earthshade for the leather.

After doing all of the shading of the base coats, I moved up to highlights.  The blue had the most highlighting to do, due to surface area.  I used Cygnar highlight for the midtone and Trollblood Base for the highlight.  I got the pop that I wanted, but I think I could have gotten a better transition if I did a mix of Cgynar base and highlight and used the highlight as it is named.  The hair was the same base mix with some Khardic Flesh added in for the midtone.  I then used Khardic Flesh as the highlight.  I think I like this range for auburn hair.  I went back after this and glazed my highlights to smooth the layers out and ease the transition.  This is an area that I have struggled in a lot.  I think I got better with this model, but it still isn’t where I want it to be.

With the lower areas set, it was time to move to the raised areas, namely belts and metal.  The belts are pretty straight-forward, Boostrap and Agrax, same as the other leather.  As for the metal, I’ve normally defaulted to Model Air Silver by Vallejo, however, it is SUPER bright.  I have this color in the Model Color line, Oily Steel, that I have had problems with before, but figured I’d give it another go.  It started the same way this time unfortunately.  The paint is very dark and at times just looks like gray paint with glitter in it.  Rather than just giving in, I decided to do another coat and shake the dropper bottle about 2x as long as usual.  The paint came out completely different looking and how I wanted it to.  It is a very dark metal, but I think it works well with the Masons’ aesthetic.  I went back shaded it with Nuln Oil (shocker) and highlighted back up with the Oily Steel.


The last touch were the belts on the boots and buckles.  I just used the Cygnar base here again with Oily Steel.

I finished the model up by adding PVA glue to the base and dropping some Gale Force Nine grass flock onto it.  After the basing dried, I made a white line down the base to give a chalk line effect to the base.

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I think total time involved was around 3 to 4 hours, which isn’t bad at all.

Overall I am pretty happy with the model.  I really like the contrast with the hair and the blue fabric.  I really like the way the metal turned out too.  A lot of my metallics pop way too much and I have to over apply shade to bring them down, which I then mess up when I come and pick out highlights.

There are two areas that I want to put some work into.  The first is leather.  I think the Boostrap Leather color is effective, however, it alone is missing some depth.  A friend mentioned once to add skin tones to do highlights on leather being that leather is a skin based hide.  I’ve done it previously and the color was good, but my layer had such hard lines it didn’t look good.  I think this suggestion, with some glazing could work very well.

The next area is the face.  The face just looks unfinished to me.  However, whenever I try to do eyes the models always look derpy.  I’ve seen people nail check bones and collar bones with shading and to be honest, I have zero idea where to start.  If someone could give me some type of introduction to faces, be it a video, or something to read, I would be grateful.

I think next up is going to be Wrecker, the newer Masons’ mascot.  I am hoping to get to him in the next few weeks.  The goal is to have my Masons completely painted again by May.


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